From Scout:
When I was in New Orleans I often heard “Did you read Rose today?” That would be Times Picayune and pulitzer Prize nominee columnist Chris Rose who has become a must read in post Katrina NOLA. If you aren’t familiar with his work he has a book entitled “1 Dead in Attic” and here is a post at Josh Britton.com that includes parts of an interview with Rose. In his column last Friday Rose writes of following his own advice that New Orleanians take out of town visitors on a “Misery Tour.” Rose took some of his visitors to see the lower 9th before going to Jazzfest. On the way they saw a jazz funeral in the 8th ward……
They’d already seen Lakeview and Mid-City the day before. More than anything else, the emptiness of it all is what stirs the soul. That’s what tells this story. Eight months later, the question still hammers home: Where the hell is everybody?
While we were tooling around the 8th Ward, we turned up St. Roch Avenue and got stalled behind a gathering in the street and, unaware of what was going on, I backed up and took a circuitous route around St. Roch Cemetery and then ended up in front of the crowd.
It was a funeral. A jazz funeral, of all things.
It was small. A hearse, one limo and maybe 40 people following. Several men with matching T-shirts followed close behind the hearse, with their hands on the back of it and their heads bowed. A ragtag band played a slow dirge.
Unlike the big and brassy processions that follow the passings of famous musicians around here, this one was off the radar. It was just some family and friends and none of the attendant video and camera crews that can turn these intimate gatherings into culture vulture documentaries rather than unique spiritual reckonings.
The St. Roch area is still so blown out and desolate that this pocket of humanity and color lent a haunting quality to the landscape. It looked like an apparition in the hushed grayness.
“Is this for real?” my guests asked me and I told them yes, this is what happens here.
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